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Archive for the category “Travel Posts”

Summertime in Waseca, Minnesota

Note: I wrote the draft of this post after visiting Waseca, Minnesota in June 2016 — but didn’t publish it. I’ve had a very busy schedule this month so I’m dusting off the draft and putting it out there today. Hope you enjoy it.)

June 28, 2020

While sitting at the counter one bright summer morning at the Pheasant Cafe…

The Pheasant Cafe in Waseca

Sixes! I need Sixes!

That cry echoed across the diner with the urgency of a Chicago commodities trader hawking pork bellies at the Merc.

I looked up from my ham and cheese omelet with hash browns to find the source of the sudden commotion. There, off to my far right sat four old men around a corner table. A fifth man, probably a septuagenarian, stood leaning forward, left hand on the table, right hand clutching five big red dice, ready to toss them onto a white tablecloth. Dishes and silverware from finished breakfasts had been pushed to the edges of the table, making room for a small pile of silver coins in the center. Old friends playing for nickels and dimes — early Thursday mornings here in rural Minnesota somehow resemble late Friday nights at Caesar’s in Las Vegas.

Meanwhile, not minding the rambunctious old men, a lone old woman sat at a separate table across from them, calmly sipping her coffee, waiting for her husband who should arrive in a few moments.  At yet another table two old women sat together, similarly sipping their black coffee and waiting. Perhaps they are wives to one or two of the dice-playing men. Or perhaps they have no one to wait for.  I wondered.

Waseca, Minnesota lies about an hour south of Minneapolis but a world away. It’s corn and soybean country; no casinos, those are an hour south in Iowa. Here’s a free plug for the Pheasant Cafe. Drop by someday — I doubt you’ll get any action, but the good food will be reward enough.

Outside the cafe, State Street has been prepared for the Fourth of July.

State Street. Waseca, Minnesota. (verified by the town water tower in the background)

In addition to the classic breakfast café, Waseca successfully meets and exceeds all one’s small-town expectations.  The two blocks of downtown businesses are all open.  (This includes two other coffee shops, several bars, and at least two casual dining restaurants.)  Side street houses are shaded by tall leafy trees.  Lawns are being mowed, wood siding is being re-painted.

The Waseca Music Company, and other classic brick businesses. Waseca, Minnesota

The Waseca Music Company is still around, still on State Street. In fact, they’ve been around since 1952, which means they were around when the Beach Boys’ “I Get Around” charted to number one in the United States in 1964. The Waseca Music Company probably sold that record as a 45.

Thrivent Financial, El Molino Restaurant. State Street. Waseca, Minnesota

Waseca boasts a population of 9,000. That’s small but growing — 9,000 is its largest size since settlement in 1867. Waseca is the largest town in Waseca County and the county seat.

People think Minnesota is full of Swedes, but the census says that there are twice as many people of German descent here as there are Scandinavians, and in turn twice as many Scandinavians here as Irish, who are twice as many as the combined totals of all other Waseca residents.

Waseca County Courthouse, preparing for Fourth of July festivities

Built in 1897, this Richardson Romanesque structure has three granite pillars across the front entrance.  The entrance is clothed in American flag banners in anticipation of the Fourth of July just two weeks away at the time of the photo.  Above it all, a corner, four-faced clock tower rises 100 feet above the ground and keeps accurate time.

Waseca County Courthouse

This courthouse can be found on the National Register of Historic Places. Here’s some additional information on Wikipedia. That entry, however, doesn’t mention the cannon found on the courthouse lawn. It seems too large to be from the Civil War — perhaps it’s a World War I artifact.

Cannon at Waseca County Courthouse
Waseca County in the state of Minnesota

Nearby grain elevators give away the county’s main line of business.

The old Miller-Armstrong Building. Waseca, Minnesota

Later on, as I walked along a residential street, three 10-year-old girls ran swiftly past me on the sidewalk. I heard: “Hi”, “Hi” (the third one a bit behind the other two) and “Hi”. Wearing summer pastel shorts and t-shirts, each one said good morning to the stranger (me) as they rushed along to accomplish 10-year-old girl things.

They were probably going to the lake. Every Minnesota town has its own lake — didn’t you know that? Until James Lileks features Waseca in The Bleat, you can find out more here (the website has a rotating series of photos and the 2nd one is a good aerial view of the town and lakes).


All photos were taken by the author on June 23, 2016.

A list of all photo posts from the American County Seats series in TimManBlog can be found here.

I travel as a hobby and not for a living (yet) — but donations are happily accepted if you’d like to help defer my costs.
Thanks,
The TimMan

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A Statue of Liberty in Heber City, Utah

May 31, 2020

(Note: I wrote the draft of this post after visiting Heber City, Utah in May 2012 — but didn’t publish it. I’ve had a very busy schedule this month so I’m dusting off the draft and putting it out there today. Hope y’all enjoy it.)

An old wit once compared the nineteenth-century Mormon pioneers of Utah to the Jewish refugees who settled in Israel after the Holocaust — fleeing oppression, both groups settled in barren deserts only to turn them into beautiful gardens.

As I drove into Heber City, Utah, I could tell this was an old Mormon town just by reading the street signs. The Mormons are peculiar yet conformist — each Mormon town has the same street layout, a rigid system of grid numbers. There are never streets named for trees, ex-Presidents, nor even esteemed Mormon leaders. Instead, a street 9 blocks north of the town center is called simply “900 North” while a street 3 blocks east of the town center is “300 East,” and so forth everywhere. The only exceptions are for the central north-south street, called “Main”, and the central east-west street which is called “Center”.

Wasatch County in the state of Utah

Each Mormon town has a tabernacle, and it usually rises at the intersection of Center and Main, the center of town and so symbolically the center of town life.

Pictured below is the old Wasatch Stake Tabernacle in Heber City, built in 1889. Today this is just a historical artifact — having outgrown the old building the local congregation has since built a larger facility nearby.

Wasatch Stake Tabernacle with the statue of “The Family,” Heber City, Utah

(Some history here from Wikipedia.)

I glanced quickly at the bronze statue of “The Family” on the temple lawn. At first, it seems like a typical statue honoring a simple pioneer family, yet I thought it a peculiar subject for the formerly polygamous Mormons. Nevertheless, it is true that the LDS church outlawed polygamy in 1890 and that only a minority of Mormons practiced it even when it was sanctioned.

Wasatch Stake Tabernacle

Heber City was founded in the late 1850s by English immigrants of the Mormon faith (early Mormons heavily evangelized in England) and named for Mormon leader Heber C. Kimball. Like many other Utah towns, Heber City is often referred to as just “Heber” — as Salt Lake City is often referred to as just “Salt Lake” or Brigham City as “Brigham.”

Heber is down-slope from its famous ski neighbor Park City (or is it just “Park”?) on the eastern slopes of the Wahsatch Mountains. The area is a combination of old-time Mormon community and newer, ski-related growth. The two appear to intermingle well. The established folks provide services to the newer ski group who in turn spend their money on land and retail sales.

Business block at the Corner of Main and Center. Heber City, Utah

Heading away from the intersection of Main and Center, I photographed a typical home — smallish but well-kept and with a fantastic view behind it:

In the Shadow of the Wahsatch. Heber City, Utah

Snow-capped peaks in the background. It’s late May.

Heber City is prosperous.  New, upscale restaurants compete with fast food places and national-brand big-box stores up and down Main Street.  Competing with McDonald’s, Heber offers you Dairy Keen (“Home of the Train”) — a family-oriented hamburger and ice cream shop featuring a miniature train running in a loop along the edge of the dining room ceiling. Everybody loves trains!

Dairy Keen was nearly full when I went inside; half were eating while the other half were watching the trains chugging along over their heads.  Here’s a link so that you can support them the next time you’re in Heber: www.dairykeen.com.

Dairy Keen, Main Street. Heber City, Utah

Another promising place is the Side Track Café and espresso bar. (Note: the photo was taken in 2012; the Side Track has since closed).

Side Track Cafe

Built into an old Mormon stone house the Side Track offered all the products Mormons notoriously eschew — beer, wine, espresso and live music.  In fact, the Side Track seems to be flaunting them.  Perhaps the owners are rebellious old hippies but I’ll never know since the Side Track Café was closed when I dropped by — even though their flashing neon sign said they were O-P-E-N, O-P-E-N, O-P-E-N.

When saying that Heber City is a “Mormon” town that doesn’t mean that the town is only Mormon. Other faiths are well-represented:

St. Lawrence Catholic Church, corner of Center Street and 100 West. Heber City, Utah.

Because Utah is booming, nearly every county seat I visited in the state has a new courthouse and a new justice center.  Wasatch County’s new justice building is just south of town.  The structure is a semi-circular ranch-style building covered by a red stone veneer with yellow stone trim.

Wasatch County Courthouse. Heber City, Utah

Let’s finish back at the beginning with the old Tabernacle. In front of the old tabernacle is a bronze statue of a pioneer family called “The Family.”

Statue of “The Family.” Heber City, Utah

Here’s the inscription:

The monument’s foundation symbolizes the eternal nature of the family. The plow represents the industry of man. The wheat is the fruit of honest labor. The wheel represents progress; through effort we move forward. The father provides direction for the future with his hand on the wheel. The mother, located at the center, provides teaching and nurturing of the family. The son kneels at his mother’s knee which reminds us that the greatest lessons are taught in the home. The daughter standing with a book in her hand suggests the need for continued education.

First, there is “industry” then “labor” and then “progress” through “effort”.  “The Family” travels in a setting of Liberty: This is a statue of the American experience — a Statue of Liberty if you will. This monument could represent any of the many American pioneer emigrations and could be appropriate in any number of states: in Kentucky showing how Daniel Boone led settlers through Cumberland Gap, or in Oregon at the end of the Oregon Trail, or even in Massachusetts describing the Pilgrims landing at Plymouth Rock.

All long journeys are both physical and spiritual endeavors. Anyone who says otherwise hasn’t read “Huckleberry Finn.” 

Although today’s modern journeys are less physically taxing than those of our ancestors, they can be just as spiritually transformative. Try it. You’ll see.

Finally:

Plaque honoring Heber C. Kendall. Heber City, Utah

The People of Heber City cherish the heritage bequeathed by our pioneer forebears and the challenge set forth by the city’s namesake, Heber C. Kendall:  Now you people have named your little town after me.  I want you to see to it that you are honest, upright citizens….that I may not have cause to be ashamed.


All photos were taken by the author on May 30, 2012.

A list of all photo posts from the American County Seats series in TimManBlog can be found here.

I travel as a hobby — donations are happily accepted if you’d like to help defer my costs.
Thanks,
Tim

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Salem, Arkansas: Clean Livin’ and the Spitball

April 29, 2020

Salem, with a population of less than 2,000, is the largest town in northern Arkansas’ Fulton County. The landscape here consists of rolling farmland, yet mostly used for cattle raising from what I can see. It’s hard to say if the county is considered part of the Ozarks or not – there are some tall hills around but I wouldn’t call them mountains.

Town Creek. Salem, Arkansas
Fulton County in the state of Arkansas

The Salem has the standard town layout – the courthouse is at the center of the town square with roads and businesses on all four sides.

Fulton County Courthouse. Salem, Arkansas

A sign on the courthouse lawn explains that the land for the Fulton County Courthouse was donated in 1842. The current building was constructed in 1891 and renovated in 1974. It’s a two-story brick structure with the bricks painted red. The architecture I would characterize as sturdy – there are no adornments whatsoever. It’s purely functional.

Inside the courthouse, some professional photographs of rustic county scenes line the single first-floor hallway. These are professionally done and very striking photographs. I’m surprised that they aren’t for sale, I imagine each one could sell for hundreds of dollars.

A local group called the “Fulton County Master Gardeners” provides landscaping for the courthouse lawn and they did an excellent job. The group maintains over a dozen flowerpots on the lawn currently filled with blooming tulips. Here are some examples of their fine work:

Tulips at Fulton County Courthouse. The stone marker on the left describes the Civil War battle of Salem, March 11, 1862.
Tulips at Fulton County Courthouse. The small sign above the planter identifies the work of the Fulton County Master Gardeners.

I took some photos around town. Salem is a small place.

Looking east down Church Street. Salem, Arkansas

On one corner, Swingles Family Diner looks inviting although I’ve had breakfast already. Nearby, an old two-story stone building is marked “Federal Building“. It’s nice to see the Federal Government occupying such humble offices for once. The sign on the door lists 3 offices: Election Office, Revenue Office, and the Veterans Office.

The Federal Building in Salem, Arkansas

The newest building around the town square is the Bank of Salem, a catercorner to the courthouse. Across the street from the bank, Mayfield’s General Store is sadly going out of business, leaving others to services the town’s feed corn and ammo needs.

Businesses along the town square in Salem, Arkansas.

However, the true center of town is the hair salon down the street, “Trendy Tresses.” They’re doing a booming business.

Trendy Tresses. Salem, Arkansas

Across town square stands the picturesque Salem United Methodist Church. I love old stone buildings.

Salem United Methodist Church. Salem, Arkansas

A half-mile from the Salem town square, Preacher Roe Park is the town baseball field, probably used for Little League and pony league games only these days.

Historical sign at Preacher Roe Park. Salem, Arkansas

There is a historical sign by the park explaining how Preacher Roe, a famous major-league pitcher for the Brooklyn Dodgers in the 1950s, offered his time to help raise funds for lighting the park. He brought himself and some major league friends, including Pittsburgh Pirate Bill Virdon, to play exhibition games here in Salem. The funds were raised in a few years of games.

Preacher Roe Park — with lights — about a half-mile walk north of town square along Route 9. Salem, Arkansas.

Here’s a little bit more about the old ballplayer, from Wikipedia:

“Roe was still pitching in the majors at age 39, unusual at the time, and was the third-oldest player in the National League in the 1954 season, his last in the majors. When asked to explain his longevity, he replied “Clean livin’ and the spitball.” He described his methodology in a 1955 article in Sports Illustrated, “The Outlawed Spitball Was My Money Pitch”, published a year after he retired.”

Clean living and the spitball. Life is a knot of paradoxes.

Hope you enjoyed this walk around Salem. Here’s a link to Salem’s Chamber of Commerce site. Quite a bit different than Salem, Massachusetts, don’t you think?


All photos were taken by the author on April 18, 2018.

A list of all photo posts from the American County Seats series in TimManBlog can be found here.

I travel as a hobby — donations are happily accepted if you’d like to help defer my costs.
Thanks,
Tim

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St. Martinville: Louisiana’s Acadian Capital

March 31, 2020

I learned in grade school that Baton Rouge is the capital of Louisiana and that New Orleans is its largest city. But that’s not the whole story. West of New Orleans lies Acadiana. Visit the Cajun homeland, and you’ll see that it’s sort of a separate country.

Bayou Teche in St. Martinville Parish, Louisiana
Saint Martin Parish in the state of Louisiana

I had thought that Lafayette was the capital of Acadiana; it’s not, it’s just “the city.” St. Martinville is the Acadian capital and spiritual home. At the center of St. Martinville is St. Martin of Tours Catholic Church, a grand yet simple church.

St. Martinville, Louisiana
St. Martin of Tours, St. Martinville, Louisiana

I caught a work crew cleaning the church grounds, and a little girl was raking the shrubs around the statues. She was maybe 10 or 11 and had the French Acadian features — brown hair, blue eyes, and fair skin.

More background on the Acadians, or “Cajuns,” is available from Wikipedia here. The Expulsion is the Acadian’s national origin narrative, and “Evangeline” is their epic poem. St. Martinville is the home of this remembrance.

Evangeline, outside St. Martin of Tours church
The Evangeline Oak, St. Martinville, Louisiana

The Evangeline Oak (and the church) lie along the banks of Bayou Teche which runs through town. It was a warm, calm spring day and I took some photos along the bayou, where cypress trees stand along the banks with half their roots out of the water. It was so peaceful and quiet, and not a single mosquito.

Bayou Teche

I’ve been told that Louisiana bayous are actually slow-moving rivers and not standing water or swamps. Someday I’ll test that. I’ll set up a bayou-side lawn chair on some warm, mosquito-less winter day. Then I’ll toss a leaf in the water and spend the day with a book, some tunes, some snacks, and see how the leaf travels downstream in an afternoon. It will be an “experiment.”

There are some nice little places along the bayou complete with tall, wide oaks covered with Spanish moss, and this hotel.

Spanish Moss. St. Martinville, Louisiana
Old Castillo Bed & Breakfast. St. Martinville, Louisiana

The old hotel lies along the bayou, near the Evangeline site and St. Martin’s Church. Their website is here.

I walked around town. Things are quaint, well-run, well-kept, and busy. These aren’t rich folk, but they prosper.

Typical street scene. St. Martinville, Louisiana

The local shops carry an obvious French influence.

Le Petit Paris Cafe

Street signs in the center of town are written in both English and French.

St. Martinville is the seat of St. Martin Parish, Louisiana (counties are called “parishes” here). I found the courthouse a few blocks south of the church along Rue Principal Sud (Main Street South). It’s a two-story wooden building that looks like a southern plantation house. Unfortunately, the place was being renovated at the time and I couldn’t go inside.

St. Martin Parish courthouse. St. Martinville, Louisiana

I hope you have a chance to visit St. Martinville. The town is a real treat. And by the way, Acadian gumbo is a national treasure! Despite the humid climate, I could see myself living here for a while.


All photos were taken by the author in March, 2011.

A list of all photo posts from the American County Seats series in TimManBlog can be found here.

Donations are happily accepted if you’d like to help defer my costs.
Thanks,
Tim

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Marquette, Michigan: Experience the Warmth!

February 29, 2020

Today is Leap Day, February 29th, a day which comes only once every four years. I remember a former colleague of mine insisting that Leap Day should be a company holiday — if not a national holiday. “It’s an extra day, people! Why do you want to work?” Hard to argue with that logic.

So, for such a rare day I offer a glimpse of the fine city of Marquette, Michigan, where the street signs invite you to Experience the Warmth beneath 10 inches of accumulated snow! (Ten inches is the statistical average of constant snow depth in Marquette during February.) It’s a nice town, despite the irony. Enjoy!

Marquette Yacht Club with frozen Lake Superior in the background

Marquette, Michigan (population 22,000 or so) is a small city on the shores of Lake Superior. Established around iron ore mining in the mid-1800s, Marquette was the largest iron boomtown in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (the “U.P”) and it’s still the largest town in the U.P. today. 7.9 million gross tons of ore passed through Marquette’s Presque Isle Harbor in 2005.

Lower Harbor Ore Dock, Marquette, Michigan

Despite the gritty image of iron ore mining, Marquette’s commercial district boasts some grand old buildings along its main street (Washington Street) with an equally grand view over a bluff down to the shores of the lake. 

Marquette City Hall

The old Savings Bank building (photo below) was built in 1891 and is still used for commercial office space. Because the building rises above a cliff leading down to the lakeshore, the front side has five floors while the rear has seven. I can only imagine the views from a corner office space. Wikipedia has an entry and more photos here.

Marquette’s Savings Bank building. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places

Even in winter, downtown Marquette remains a vibrant place full of cozy restaurants, bars, and hotels.

Marquette, Michigan: view looking north along Front Street from Main toward Washington

What could warm your stomach better than the Lagniappe Cajun Creole Eatery? It’s there on the right in the photo below, occupying an old movie theatre.

Marquette, Michigan along Washington Street
Currently a Wells Fargo branch. Notice the front floor-to-ceiling windows.

Many of the buildings in old Marquette were constructed using attractive Jacobsville red sandstone and often have iron cupola domes. This includes the Marquette County Courthouse.  This attractive building sits atop a little rise overlooking both the harbor and a few blocks of the downtown district.  They’ve added an annex and a jail behind the original structure. More here.

Marquette County Courthouse
Marquette County Courthouse including annex and jail
Marquette County Courthouse
View of downtown Marquette from the courthouse. The lower harbor ore dock and Lake Superior are in the background.
Marquette County in the state of Michigan

People have come to Marquette on this day to watch the sled dog races.  I didn’t catch all the details but it seems to be a big and well-organized event since they have officials and official volunteers.  I walked down to the finish line where Starbucks was giving away free cups of coffee to the humans.  Both dogs and people seemed to be having a good time.

Sled dog sled (with musher?)
Sled dogs after the race
The Finish Line

The backdrop to the festivities:

Frozen Lake Superior at Marquette, Michigan, in February 2009

Need a warm-up after the race? Go for a beer at L’Attitude Bistro (now the Iron Bay Tap Room).

This little place on Marquette’s frozen waterfront occupies the basement of a refurbished old downtown building.  The inside walls are old brick and the hallways back to the kitchen and restrooms are like a labyrinth of caverns.  The urban tourist crowd loves this place and many of the tables are filled with skiers and old hippies with hoop earrings and long, gray ponytail manes. 

Seriously, Marquette is a great town. In 2012 it was named among the 10 best places to retire in the United States. (Wikipedia entry here)

Enjoy the Warmth!


All photos by the author and were taken in February 2009.

A list of all photo posts from the American County Seats series in TimManBlog can be found here.

Donations are happily accepted if you’d like to help defer my costs.
Thanks,
Tim

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Taos

January 31, 2020

Taos — such a unique name that no further qualifiers are needed. Just remember to put the “a” before the “o” and everyone knows the place.

Street mural. Taos, New Mexico

Let’s start the Taos tour at the home of its most famous resident — noted Western pathfinder Kit Carson.

Kit Carson home and museum. Taos, New Mexico
Looking east from the center of Taos along US 64, towards the mountain divide

Born in Kentucky in 1809, Kit Carson grew up in Missouri on land once owned by the sons of Daniel Boone. As a teenager, he left the farm and shop life and set off westward on the Santa Fe Trail. Using Taos as his base, Carson built his reputation as a scout and a mountain man over the next decade. Later, in the 1840s, Carson served as the chief scout on John C. Fremont’s western expeditions and served with General Stephen Watts Kearny during the Mexican War. Carson died in 1868 as a brevet brigadier general at nearby Fort Garland, Colorado. (more on Kit Carson’s life here.)

Kit Carson Historic District. Taos, New Mexico

Nearly catercorner from the Kit Carson house, Taos Plaza is the marketplace of old Taos.

Taos Plaza
Padre Antonio Jose Martinez, and the Hotel La Fonda de Taos. Taos Plaza
War memorial in Taos Plaza
Shops in Taos Plaza. Notice the wooden ladder giving access to the roof.

Taos Plaza is like most town squares around America, except with a Hispano flair. Here one can find shops, cafes, park benches, statues and memorials, and even a hotel. You can also find posters and advertisements for local events. One such event was advertised by the photo below: “Full Moon Gong Journey” as presented by Shree Yoga. Vibrational Sound for the Whole Being. Only $15. Yes, Taos was “New Age” long before there was anything like “wokeness.” (Sorry about the quality of the photograph. My I-phone did the best it could to remove my reflection.)

While in town, I had drinks and dinner at the Taos Inn (photo below). A flamenco guitarist entertained and sang to the bar crowd in Spanish. I didn’t understand a word. His audience consisted of artists and tourists along with the odd skier.

Looking north from Taos Plaza. The famous Taos Inn is in the background.

In bygone days the Taos County Courthouse was adjacent to the plaza, but a new facility was built a half-mile away in 1979. The old structure still stands and holds some fascinating wall murals. Murals include both English and Spanish titles, reflecting the many centuries of Spanish influence in Taos:

Moses the Lawgiver. Old Taos courthouse.

Some of the murals are remarkably prescient. Note how it was understood that laws must be moderate to be effective and just:

Superfluous Laws Oppress
Sufficient Laws Protect

Here are two more murals before we move on:

Justice Begets Content (contentment)
Avarice Breeds Crime

Nearly all the buildings in Taos (if not ALL the buildings) are constructed in the adobe style — even the new courthouse.

Modern Taos County Courthouse. Taos, New Mexico
Taos County in the state of New Mexico

Of course, Taos was occupied long before Spanish conquistador Capitan Hernan Alvarado arrived here in 1540. It’s estimated that the Tiwa Indians settled here sometime around 1350 A.D. The name “Taos” is believed to be an adaptation of the Indian word Towih, meaning “red willows.”

Just north of Taos at Taos Pueblo, descendants of the ancient ones live much as they used to.

The most prominent structure is this multi-story, multi-family adobe complex, said to have been built between 1000 and 1450 A.D.

Taos Pueblo

Notice the external wooden ladders used to navigate between floors. Exterior doors are painted bright red, green, or blue for contrast against the adobe brown.

Taos Pueblo

Spanish missionaries left their mark among the native peoples, and their influence has become permanent.

St. Jerome Church. Taos Pueblo
Old graveyard. Taos Pueblo

All photos were taken by the author in January 2007 or January 2010.

A list of all photo posts from the American County Seats series in TimManBlog can be found here.

Donations are happily accepted if you’d like to help defer my costs.
Thanks,
Tim

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Christmastime in Johnson City, Texas

Blanco County Courthouse showing its ‘Hill Country Style.’ Johnson City, Texas

December 28, 2019

Texans are known for many things, but a knack for understatement isn’t one of them. During my recent visits there (December 2015 and 2016) I collected several photos which demonstrate that point.

Blanco County in the state of Texas

The basic idea is (of course) that everything is bigger in Texas, including Christmas lights. Here, the county covered its courthouse with a vertical string of lights every 10-12 inches all around the building. As a tourist sign directed, “to find the courthouse, just follow the glow.”

Displays and ornaments fill the courthouse grounds until little bare ground remains. These folks set up a reindeer corral, lighted snowmen, Santa riding a bucking bronco, and more.

Courthouse with lawn ornaments
Santa riding a bucking bronco of a reindeer
Blanco County Courthouse in daylight

Students of the American Presidency will recognize Johnson City as the hometown of its namesake Lyndon Baines Johnson, 37th president of the United States. The town was founded in 1879 by Jonas Polk Johnson, nephew of LBJ’s grandfather. Its population today is approximately 1,600 persons.

Lyndon Johnson’s boyhood home. Johnson City, Texas

Because of President Johnson, Johnson City draws tourists year-round, keeping small town merchants busy. There’s a brewpub across from the courthouse and a few art galleries nearby.

Pecan Street Brewing. Johnson City, Texas
Along Nugent Avenue in Johnson City

At Christmastime the lights go up, with nary an understatement to be seen.

Christmastime in Johnson City, Texas
Christmas lights in Johnson City, Texas

President Lyndon Johnson once said that “Of all the things I have ever done, nothing has given me as much satisfaction as bringing power to the Hill Country of Texas.” LBJ can rightly take credit for establishing the Pedernales Electric Cooperative (PEC) in 1938, which brought electricity to the rural Hill Country. The PEC’s headquarters are a few blocks from the courthouse. Its legacy can be seen — BRIGHTLY — below:

Christmas light show at the Pedernales Electric Cooperative

Each Christmas flocks of tourists come to Johnson City to see this spectacular light show. The little town can suddenly get quite busy, more than the little Pecan Street Brewing company can handle.

Feeling very thirsty and not wanting to stand in line at a crowded brewpub full of tourists, I discovered a little hole-in-the-wall tavern around the corner called Kenny’s Cantina, where I could enjoy a few Lone Stars in peace — a place where the locals drink. As you can see, these Texan folk don’t see much need for understatement, preferring to let you know — beyond any doubt — exactly who their heroes are.

Kenny’s Cantina, December 2016

Here’s to finding that spot where the locals go. Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy 2020!

All photos by the author. Photos were taken on December 9, 2015, and December 21, 2016.


A list of all photo posts from the American County Seats series in TimManBlog can be found here.

All photos were taken by the author on January 15, 2013.

I’m trying to travel to all of America’s county courthouses, and each month a post about my visit to the most interesting county seats. It’s only a hobby — but donations are greatly appreciated to help defer my costs.
Thanks,
Tim

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Adventure and Victory: Frederick, Oklahoma

November 30, 2019

It’s been six years now since I had the pleasure of finding Frederick, Oklahoma on a warm Monday afternoon. I had no travel agenda that day save to find the Tillman County Courthouse and the town of Frederick which is its seat. I didn’t realize that I was visiting the home of two extraordinary explorers known as “The Abernathy Boys.”

The Abernathy Boys of Tillman County, Oklahoma

The photo above shows the Abernathy Boys at the height of their fame — ages 9 and 5. The statues sit on the Tillman County Courthouse lawn. A nearby plaque provides their story much better than I can paraphrase:

The Adventures of the Abernathy Boys

In the summer of 1909, the Abernathy boys set off on horseback, riding from their Cross Roads Ranch in Tillman County to Santa Fe, New Mexico, and back. Louis (Bud) was nine years old. Temple was only five.

On April 5, 1910, with Bud and Temple astride their horses Sam Bass and Geronimo, the boys traveled east. They were on the trail for two months, riding to meet their friend, former President Theodore Roosevelt, as he returned to New York City from an African safari. Along the way, the brothers fell in love with automobiles. They bought a Brush Runabout in New York, and Bud and Temple drove themselves home, making the trip in just twenty-three days.

When Temple was seven and Bud was eleven, they were challenged to ride from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific in sixty days. At stake was a $10,000 prize. The boys left from Coney Island on August 11, 1911, and – 3,619 miles later – arrived at the Pacific just two days late. Although they did not win the prize, they set a record for the fastest cross-country ride on horseback. This record has never been broken.

The Abernathys made their last long-distance ride in June 1913, driving a custom-designed, two-seat, twin-engine motorcycle from the Cross Roads Ranch to New York City. This time they returned to Oklahoma by train.

Temple grew up to be an oilman, and Bud became a lawyer. Both settled and raised families in north Texas. However, it was in Tillman County that the remarkable Abernathy Brothers – the youngest long riders – began and ended their greatest adventures.

Pretty good for a couple of kids, don’t you think? More details here from Wikipedia.

After reading about those two young adventurers I wandered over to the Taste of Grand coffee shop for some lunch so I could digest what I had just seen and read. The shop is located inside the old Grand Hotel, a remnant of a bygone era.

The Grand Hotel. Frederick, Oklahoma

A Taste of Grand is actually a few doors off Grand Avenue but in the shadow of the old 5-story hotel. The old art deco building seems a bit out of place these days and in fact, no longer operates as a hotel; nevertheless, it remains the largest building in Frederick — the courthouse and the First Baptist Church following behind.

Grand Hotel

Taste of Grand was run by a sweet little old lady. She wore a pair of powder blue stretch pants and horned-rim glasses. I was her only customer at lunchtime. She served me some of her homemade chunky potato soup and a pepper-jack grilled cheese sandwich. Good potato soup is always flavored with onion and mushroom and my hostess was smart enough to know that. After serving my food she turned on a recording of Gospel music for my dining enjoyment. “Amazing Grace” and “O Happy Day!” complement a simple meal quite well on a sunny Monday. Just add in a homemade chocolate chip oatmeal cookie, topped with a pecan half, and you have one certifiably quaint small-town experience.

Historic Ramona Theatre. Frederick, Oklahoma
Using 4 Stop signs as a traffic island is the local style for 4-way stops.

While enjoying my leisure and wondering how the Abernathy Boys had pulled off their explorations, my thoughts turned to the explorations made by Lewis and Clark. I remember a story of how, upon their return to Washington in 1807, they were toasted at the White House by poet Joel Barlow. The poet raised his glass and toasted: “To Victory over Wilderness which is more interesting than that over Man!”

Great words. Even though Lewis & Clark never traversed the land of Oklahoma, their victory over Wilderness is repeated here in various forms.

Here’s a good example. Victory over Wilderness requires knowledge. Call it Victory over Ignorance:

Carnegie Library. Frederick, Oklahoma

Justice must be served. Here is the Tillman County Courthouse — a Victory over Lawlessness:

Tillman County Courthouse
Tillman County in the state of Oklahoma

This (one may argue) represents a Victory over Licentiousness (although it may be more of a victory over Man than over the Wilderness):

First Baptist Church of Frederick, Oklahoma

Although Man cannot live on bread alone, he must have bread in the first place. Here is Victory over Hunger:

Grain Elevators

Finally, nothing establishes Victory over Wilderness more than this — VICTORY OVER PESTS!

That’s all from Frederick. Hoping you have a chance to celebrate your own victories over the Wilderness.


All photos by the author. Photos taken November 18, 2013.

A list of all photo posts from the American County Seats series in TimManBlog can be found here.

I’m trying to travel to all of America’s county courthouses, and each month a post about my visit to the most interesting county seats. It’s only a hobby — but donations are greatly appreciated to help defer my costs.
Thanks,
Tim

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Along the Pathways of Exploration: Fort Pierre, South Dakota

Missouri River vista at Fort Pierre, South Dakota

October 31, 2019

South Dakota may be sparsely populated but the landscape is grand. I passed miles and miles of fertile fields getting here, saw many herds of cattle and free antelope. The photos above and below this paragraph show the wide Missouri River in the central part of the state as taken from a hill above the old trading post of Fort Pierre.

Missouri River vista at Fort Pierre, South Dakota
Stanley County in the state of South Dakota

Clinging to the west bank of the Missouri River, Fort Pierre was founded in 1832 as Fort Pierre Chouteau, a fur-trading post. Pierre Chouteau, Jr. was a prominent fur trader from St. Louis, and his name can be found on towns and streets as far west as Montana. But Chouteau wasn’t the first white man to arrive in this area.

Not even Captains Lewis and Clark can make that claim.

Two French explorers, Francois and Louis-Joseph Verendrye arrived here on March 30, 1743, during an expedition from French-held Quebec. Claiming the region for the King of France, the Verendrye brothers left a lead plate buried in a hill above the river to mark their claim. The Verendryes are thought to be the first Europeans to have crossed the Great Plains to see the Rocky Mountains. In 1803 the United States would purchase this claim from France as part of the Louisiana Purchase.

170 years later on February 16, 1913, two boys discovered the Verendrye’s lead plate, which had since been forgotten. The historical marker below provides further details. The grand landscape photos shown above were taken from this natural vantage point.

Historical marker at the Verendyre Site

Down the hill from the Verendrye site lies the old town of Fort Pierre. It’s small — only 2,000 inhabitants today — but can still brag that it’s grown exponentially from its days as a fur trading post. Here are some photos around town. Most of these buildings can be found along Deadwood Street:

“Prairie Traders” in Fort Pierre, South Dakota
The Verendrye Museum
A vital drinking establishment serving the Fort Pierre community.
View down Deadwood Street, Fort Pierre, South Dakota

I remained very quiet while taking this next photo of a sleeping dog and a juicy bone. I was careful not to wake the dog nor approach the bone.

Sleeping dog and bone

Fort Pierre is also the county seat of Stanley County, South Dakota. Their courthouse was built in 1976 and looks new and well-kept. The buffalo statue is appropriate for the region.

Stanley County Courthouse South Dakota
Stanley County Courthouse, Fort Pierre, South Dakota

There’s more history to this place than just the Verendryes though. Just two blocks south of the Verendrye Museum is a small city park at the junction of the Bad River and the Missouri. It was at this spot in late September 1804, 61 years after the Verendryes, that American explorers Captains Lewis and Clark had their famous confrontation with the Teton Sioux.

For details of the confrontation I can recommend Stephen Ambrose’s fine “Undaunted Courage,” page 170, but in short, here’s what happened. The Sioux sought a test of wills with the white explorers and demanded additional presents from Lewis and Clark — a tribute of sorts — to allow them to continue up the Missouri. The Americans refused. Guns were drawn, bows were strung and aimed, and even the American’s cannon mounted on their keelboat was aimed at the Indians onshore. But no shots were fired. The Sioux backed down, and Lewis and Clark continued on their way.

Junction of the Bad and Missouri Rivers at Fort Pierre, South Dakota

The settlement around old Fort Pierre grew slowly after its founding. By the 1840s the fur trade had declined precipitously. In 1880 the town of Pierre, South Dakota was founded on the east bank of the Missouri across from Fort Pierre. Because the railroad reached the east side of the river before the west, Pierre grew quickly and was eventually designated state capital of South Dakota.

Pierre, South Dakota as seen from the Verendrye marker across the river in Fort Pierre
South Dakota State Capitol Building in Pierre

Although Pierre has the state’s capital, Fort Pierre has a better history.


All photos taken by the author on October 7th and 8th, 2010.

A list of all photo posts from the American County Seats series in TimManBlog can be found here.

I’m trying to travel to all of America’s county courthouses, and each month a post about my visit to the most interesting county seats. It’s only a hobby — but donations are greatly appreciated to help defer my costs.
Thanks,
Tim

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It’s a Wonderful Life in Denison, Iowa

September 29, 2019

Insignia found on all police cars in Denison, Iowa

Little Denison, Iowa is known for two things:  it is the county seat of Crawford County, Iowa; and it is the hometown of Donna Reed, a famous American actress of the mid-twentieth century. Reed (born Donna Belle Mullenger) was best known for her portrayal of Mary Hatch Bailey, wife to George Bailey in Frank Capra’s classic Christmas film “It’s a Wonderful Life.”  The town beams pride at its famous daughter and her famous role. “It’s a Wonderful Life” emblems are printed on city vehicles, including police cars. At 6:00 in the evening, local church bells ring “Auld Lang Syne” in an homage to the movie’s triumphant final scene.

They say it’s a wonderful life here; let’s see.

The Donna Reed Performing Arts Center is the town’s center. When I dropped by the curator asked me to come inside and review the memorabilia, which is exactly what you’d expect for a museum in small-town America.

Donna Reed Performing Arts Center, Denison, Iowa
Gallery of Donna Reed photos

The Center also produces plays from time to time and the street in front of the museum is lined with handprints of various actors. I recognized Bonnie Franklin and Mike Farrell. A replica of Donna Reed’s Hollywood Boulevard star is its most prominent fixture.

Classic scenes from “It’s a Wonderful Life” are posted on streetlights near the museum. They say that Seneca Falls, New York, was the inspiration for the fictional town of Bedford Falls, but Denison, Iowa wants to make its own claim.

Denison has a population of 8,298 as of the 2010 Census. It’s a pretty typical American small town.

Downtown, Denison, Iowa
Residential area, Denison, Iowa
Conner’s Corner Bed & Breakfast (now closed)

Although Conner’s Corner no longer operates as a B&B, you could try another B&B right next door, called The Providence Inn.

Nearby the Crawford County Courthouse was completed in 1905 in the Beaux-Arts style. Young Miss Mullenger would have known this building as the center of her little town. She would have known well the Civil War statue in front (Iowa was a proud Union state).

Crawford County Courthouse
Crawford County Courthouse, Denison, Iowa

Inside the courthouse the walls are marble, railings are carved wood and wrought iron. Paintings on the wall depict scenes from the county’s pioneer history. One such painting was done in the “painting of light” style highlighting storefronts along Broadway in Denison.

View of the Iowa countryside from the steps of the courthouse

Finally, Donna Reed actually grew up on a farm near Denison, not in the town itself. Here are some photos of fall cornfields ready for harvest in the undulating terrain of western Iowa.

Fall cornfields and wild sunflowers
Endless fields of grain in western Iowa
Crawford County in the state of Iowa

All photos were taken by the author in June 2005, September 2011, or March 2017.

A list of all photo posts from the American County Seats series in TimManBlog can be found here.

Donations are happily accepted if you’d like to help defer my costs.
Thanks,
Tim

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